WOLFF VINEYARDS ON ECOLOGY
July 29,2010
TEN QUESTIONS WITH JEAN-PIERRE WOLFF
EDNA VALLEY, CALIFORNIA USA
The tasting room and patio at Wolff Vineyards (www.wolffvineyards.com), in San Luis Obispo’s Edna Valley, offer a panoramic view of its beautiful vineyards. But as you sip one of its wines (Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, Riesling, Syrah, Petite Sirah, Teroldego) you should also consider the small picture. Look closely. The property is a refuge for native pond turtles and a healthy habitat for numerous other species. Owner and winemaker, Jean-Pierre Wolff, answers Ten Questions (plus a bonus round) with Lynn Diehl this week.
Q: The Wolff Vineyards website includes a button on the navigation bar that is labeled “Ecology”. While there are more and more vineyards dedicated to healthy methods and best practices, I’ve never encountered it on a website navigation bar. Why did you add it?
A: I started this posting 10 years ago before the sustainability movement in vineyards became more popular. I felt that the vineyard had potentially unique ecological attributes, which I could improve upon, and inform our customers of the progress.
Q: Your pond is a refuge habitat for turtles. Can we see them if we visit?
A: We have a California Pacific Pound turtle refuge habitat. These turtles are in general very stealthy and will go under water with any slight unfamiliar sounds. We have a sunbathing platform in the center of the pond as a natural protected habitat where they feel safe. This is usually the best spot to take a glimpse at turtles.
Q: You support many research projects. The “Beneficial Insect Release Program” conducted by U.C. Davis and Cal Poly and the fish habitat restoration project along the creek is a multi-agency effort, do the projects ever get in the way of growing grapes and making wine?
A: I try to limit the size of the experimental projects to mitigate the impact to the vineyard until the practice or technology has been validated. Some research projects also come with governmental restrictions such as USDA and special temporary use permit since we are a commercial agriculture operation.
Multi-agency efforts are challenging to coordinate since quite often each agency has a slightly different and at times conflicting set of requirements. Progress is made to harmonize local, State and Federal guidelines but we still have a way to go. Headline news is a constant reminder of this predicament.
Q: Andy MacGregor planted the vineyard in the Edna Valley three decades ago, and, over the years, the fruit has resulted in some highly acclaimed wines. How did you and Elke discover it?
A: The vineyard was not for sale in the open market. It was through a personal acquaintance and real estate agent of Andy who sold him the property 35 years ago that we became aware of his desire to retire. I was immediately interested in the property due to its excellent national reputation.
Q: What changes have you made since you purchased it in 1999?
A: Where do I start? We converted the old vines Chardonnay to dry farming and changed trellising configuration. We planted the Riesling, Pinot Noir, Syrah, Petite Sirah, and expanded the Teroldego planting therefore doubling the planted vineyard to its current 115 acres. We expanded the existing small winery, added a tasting room, and built our main residence. We made major changes to the irrigation system to include equipment such as state of the art variable speed drive technology and added a couple of miles of electrical utility lines. A couple of years ago, we became Certified Sustainable through the SIP program.
Q: Even though Wolff Vineyards is just outside San Luis Obispo, the way the tasting room and the patio outside of it are situated, it feels as if it’s more rural than it is. What kind of environment have you tried to create for visitors?
A: Good observation. We have tried to disconnect our visitors from their busy life and to reconnect them with nature. The more relaxing nature driven surroundings enhance the wine tasting experience. After all, wine is made in the vineyard!
Q: You are originally from Belgium. What wines (style and varietal) are you most fond of?
A: I particularly enjoy the cool climate grapes such as Rhone, Burgundy and Alsatian varieties. We try to make our wine true and consistent to the varietal.
Q: Tell me about about the Teroldego variety, which you reserve for wine club members. Was it on the property when you purchased it or did you plant it?
We had a dozen Teroldego vines on the property planted by Meo Zuech the owner of Piedra Creek Winery, which was situated on the property. Meo originates from Bolzano Italy, which is “ground zero” of the Teroldego grapes. He obtained the wood from a UC Davis viticulture professor 20 years ago. Subsequently we have added more vines through grafting propagation and recently this spring we planted 1,200 new vines with the certified original clone from Bolzano through the Italian Government and UC Davis.
Q: It’s really a family affair at Wolff Vineyards isn’t it? Who does what?
A: We are a small family owned winery. Our two sons Mark and Clint are part of the business and share responsibilities in the tasting room, assisting in the wine making and maintenance activities of the property. My wife Elke is the co-owner (we do not have any business partner) and handles the business finances. Her CPA background is a natural fit for the position. I am the head troublemaker…overseeing our viticulture activity through our vineyard management company; I am the principal wine maker and manage sales and marketing. I am also involved with local Agriculture organizations, Cal Poly and gives frequent presentations on wine making and grape growing.
Q: We can’t talk about wine without a food question or two – I understand you are the go-to-guy for sauces. Do you follow recipes or create as you go?
A: Yes, I enjoy making sauces. You can add a whole new dimension to a dish with the right sauce pairing. I generally follow a general basis for the sauce in terms of its key ingredients and then modify the proportions to my taste at the time. I would say that no two sauces that I make will taste the same. I adapt to the dish that I am pairing the sauce with.
Q: As a bonus question, let’s revisit your heritage. Belgium brings to mind: beer, Eddie Merckx, chocolate and lace. So, what’s your favorite Belgian Beer? Are you a cycling fan? Been to the Tour de France?
A: I like the dark Belgian beers and some of the more unique beers such a Kriek which is made with the addition of fresh cherries in the barrel fermentation process. I traveled quite a bit by bicycle in Belgium and certainly have a soft spot for the Tour de France. I will further enjoy watching once the sport regains professionalism and credibility after a couple of years of unfortunate events. I have seen the Tour de France one year as a youngster along the Belgian and French border. It was a long wait with an endless caravan of official cars, then the cyclists zipped by, and then we went to the local tavern to share our excitement over a Belgian Beer… #